Torbay is one of the country’s finest natural harbours, a safe haven for yachtsmen and shipping during stormy weather. It is sheltered by the surrounding hills and its balmy climate makes it a popular holiday destination. The area covers the three main towns of Torquay, Paignton and Brixham taking in the villages in between. Rich in natural history the area is also widely recognised to have a great historical and geological significance. It has recently been awarded Geopark status making it one of only sixty-three Geoparks over 19 countries.

From Babbacombe to Brixham Torbay is alive with interest. With twenty-two miles of coastline containing many beaches and small coves it has much to offer the visitor. Babbacombe, which is around the northern point of the bay, has two fine beaches to which you may descend via a Funicular Cliff Railway. This is one of sixteen functioning cliff railways left in the country and is an exciting way to arrive at the beach. At its peak the railway was transporting 250,000 people a year. Close by is Babbacombe Model Village, a world of miniature houses, people and vehicles in a warm peaceful valley. The village is open throughout the year and should not be missed during a visit to Torbay.

Torquay is the largest of the three towns and has been a well-known resort since Regency times. There were baths in Torquay as early as 1817 and the sea water bathing cure was very popular thanks to George III and his regular bathing along the coast at Weymouth. The Victorians carried on this tradition and the area was well known by them as a health resort. Many came to visit and decided to stay building the fine villas overlooking the harbour. One prominent Victorian, William Pengelly, spent many years excavating in Kent’s Cavern and recording his finds. With the coming of the railway Torquay increased in popularity bringing more visitors and encouraging the building of hotels and guesthouses.

Between Torquay and Paignton in a wooded valley set back from the sea is the village of Cockington. This pretty village with its thatched cottages and village stocks may be approached during the summer months by pony and trap. The grounds of the seventeenth century Cockington Court are open to the public and you may wander freely. There are a variety of woodland walks and the Norman church is well worth a visit.

In the centre of Torbay is the town of Paignton, a flourishing holiday resort with fine safe beaches. With its pier, beach huts and sandy harbour Paignton is the home of the traditional seaside holiday. Cruises and fishing trips run from the harbour throughout the summer and other water sports are run from the beaches. No visit to Paignton is complete without a day spent at its Zoo. Created in 1923 by Herbert Whitley Paignton Zoo and Environmental Park is world famous and home to thousands of animals and plants. It has recently opened the Crocodile Swamp, home to Nile, Cuban and Saltwater crocodiles. The zoo is committed to conservation and research and runs breeding programmes for both native and exotic animals.

At the far end of the bay lies Brixham, once a small fishing village now a small town. Brixham is still a busy fishing port and has a large fleet of commercial fishing vessels though the harbour is still pretty with small boats bobbing on the water. The town is best known as the landing place of William Prince of Orange, later known as William III whose statue stands on the quayside. William landed here in 1688 in his ship the Queen Mary, named after his queen.

At the farthest point of Torbay lies Berry Head. Here are the remains of two well-preserved forts dating from the Napoleonic wars. The original military hospital, which was within the walls of one fort, was found to be too small and a new hospital built a short distance away at the base of Berry Head. This later became the home of the Reverend Henry Francis Lyte, vicar of Brixham and author of the hymn ‘Abide with me’. The house is now the Berry head Hotel. Berry Head is a nature reserve and home to a variety of seabirds. It is also on the South West Coast Path and from here you may walk the whole twenty-two miles of Torbay coast.

Napoleon is said to have viewed Torbay from the decks of the HMS Bellerophon, where he was imprisoned, and commented ‘at last, here is a beautiful country’. It is truly a beautiful place.

 

South Devon

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21 January 2010